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Cowhide vs Sheepskin vs Lambskin: Choosing a Leather

The name on the label tells you which animal the hide came from. The grade tells you which layer of that hide you are wearing. Both matter, and they are often confused.

Cowhide

Thick, dense and hard-wearing. Cowhide holds its shape, resists abrasion and is the traditional choice for motorcycle jackets. It feels stiff at first and softens over months of wear, developing creases and a patina that are unique to the wearer. It is also the heaviest of the common jacket leathers.

Sheepskin

Lighter and softer than cowhide, with a looser fibre structure that gives it drape. Sheepskin is comfortable from the first wear and suits fashion-led cuts. It marks more easily than cowhide, so it rewards a little more care. When the wool is left on, the same hide becomes shearling — one of the warmest natural materials for a winter jacket.

Lambskin

Lambskin comes from younger animals, so the hide is finer, thinner and softer still. It has a smooth, almost buttery hand and a subtle sheen. The trade-off is durability: it scuffs and scratches more readily, which makes it better suited to city wear than to riding.

Suede

Suede is not a separate animal but the inner, napped side of a split hide. It is soft and matte with a velvety feel, and is lighter than full-thickness leather. It is also the most vulnerable to rain and stains — see the suede notes in our leather care guide.

Full-Grain, Top-Grain and Genuine Leather

  • Full-grain keeps the outermost layer of the hide intact, with its natural markings. It is the strongest grade and ages best.
  • Top-grain has had the surface lightly sanded to even it out. It is more uniform and slightly less durable.
  • Split or "genuine" leather in the trade sense is made from lower layers of the hide. Confusingly, "genuine leather" is also used simply to mean real rather than faux leather — which is how we use it on this site.
If the grade matters to you for a particular jacket, ask before ordering and we will tell you what that style is cut from.

Which Should You Choose?

  • For riding or heavy daily wear: cowhide.
  • For softness and a lighter feel: sheepskin or lambskin.
  • For winter warmth: shearling.
  • For a relaxed, matte look in dry weather: suede.
Browse men's leather jackets or women's leather jackets — each product page names its material.

More Leather Jacket Guides

Built To Be Worn For Years

Our jackets are cut to order from genuine hides and finished to last. Look after one properly and it will outlast anything else in your wardrobe.

Full-grain leatherGraded hide, no corrections
Bespoke tailoringMade to your measurements
Worldwide shippingTracked express delivery
Easy returns14 days on ready-made pieces